Venecija - Vječni grad


Mnogi će se složiti kako nema romantičnijeg grada od Venecije. Mnogo je toga što se u ovom gradu mora vidjeti i doživjeti. Rana jutra u laguni i buđenje grada, veseli žamor posjetilaca iz svih krajeva svijeta, tragovi minulih epoha, kojih ovdje ima na svakom koraku, predah u starim venecijanskim kafanama, plovidba do ostrva u prostranoj laguni, pogled na grad s poznate Duždeve palate, gužva u kostimiranoj povorci najpoznatijeg evropskog karnevala...

La Serenissima je osnovana prije 1500 godina, na gomili ravne muljevite obale u centru lagune, a izdigla se do toga da je postala glavno mjesto trgovine u Evropi, izmedju istoka i zapada, i na svom vrhuncu kontrolisala je imperiju koja se prostirala sjeverno do Dolomita i preko mora sve do Kipra. Njeno bogatstvo i popularnost su rasli. Samo neki dijelovi od oko 100 ostrvaca, koja čine historijski centar, nisu izgrađena, i samo neke od njihovih usko prepletenih ulica nemaju neki znak dugačke loze grada.


Veliki kanal - Canal Grande prolazi središtem grada i oduvijek je bio glavna saobraćajnica. Ploveći njime može se vidjeti sva ljepota skladnih palata mletačkih plemića i bogatih trgovaca. Na samom kraju najpoznatijeg kanala nalazi se crkva Santa Maria della Salute. Ona je svojom blještavom bjelinom trebalo da odagna tužna sećanja na kugu, crnu smrt koja je 1630. godine za trećinu smanjila broj stanovnika Venecije. Možda je najzanimljiviji i najstariji dio grada onaj oko najdužeg kamenog mosta - Rijalta (Ponte di Rialto). Sa njega se najbolje vidi vijugava vodena površina s brojnim plovilima. Preko Velikog Kanala se pružaju 3 velika mosta - Ponte di Rialto, Ponte dell´Accademia i Ponte degli Scalzi, a četvrti most u blizini Piazzale Roma je u izgradnji, po projektu jednog od najpoznatijih svjetskih arhitekata, Španjolca Santiaga Calatrave. Također, nemoguće je ne spomenuti jedan od najkarakterističnijih i najpopularnijih mostova - Ponte dei Sospiri ( Most Uzdaha). Ova lijepa građevina je sačinjena od istarskog bijelog kamena. Iako mu naziv zvuči romantično, legenda ustvari govori nešto sasvim drugačije. Na ovom mostu su zatvorenici mogli posljednji put uživati u pogledu na vanjski svijet prije nego se suoče sa svojom tužnom istinom. U blizini Mosta uzdaha nalazi se nekadašnja tamnica iz koje je uspio da pobjegne jedino najpoznatiji svjetski ljubavnik - Casanova.


Trg svetog Marka (Piazza San Marco) oduvijek je bio sjedište vjerskog i političkog života Venecije, dok je u Duždevoj palati bilo sjedište uprave Mletačke Republike. Od venecijanskog lavirinta uskih ulica razlikuje se jedino široko šetalište, ustvari prostrana riva, nedaleko od Trga svetoga Marka. Tu je privezano mnogo ukrašenih gondola, a tu su i pristaništa izletničkih vaporetto-a, koji neprestano razvoze putnike po ostrvima u laguni. Na šetalištu se mogu sresti ljudi iz mnogih krajeva svijeta, ali tu treba doći najprije zbog jedinstvenog pogleda na venecijansku lagunu.
Bazilika sv. Marka dominantna je građevina na istoimenom trgu. Svakako spada u jedne od najljepših i najzanimljivijih svjetskih crkava, a pažnju privlači svojim posebnim izgledom. Bazilika je izgrađena još početkom 9. stoljeća, a od tada je mnogo puta rušena, građena, nadograđivana i mijenjana. Prema davnoj priči, mala kapelica počela se graditi 829. godine u čast sv. Marka, čije su ostatke iz Egipta prokrijumčarili venecijanski trgovci. Tlocrt bazilike ima oblik grčkoga križa, a sam izgled crkve nedvojbeno se temelji na istočnjačkim uzorima, prije svega istanbulskoj Aja Sofiji i Crkvi svetih apostola, također u Istanbulu, koja je uništena. Razlog za takav oblik i dizajn bazilike treba tražiti u intenzivnim kontaktima, prije svega trgovinskima, koje je Venecija ostvarivala s Bizantskim carstvom.


Darovati nešto za ukrašavanje crkve ili njeno proširenje bilo je stvar prestiža među trgovcima i političarima, pa je bazilika s vremenom postajala sve raskošnija i upečatljivija. U to vrijeme dobila je i naziv Chiesa D´Oro, tj. Zlatna crkva.


Na Knalu Grande leži mnogo prelijepih palača, ali je najistaknutija Ca´ d´Oro (Zlatna kuća). Prvobitno joj je ime bilo Palazzo Santa Sofia, ali je naknadno ime stekla zahvaljujući bogato ukrašenoj fasadi, tačnije zbog zlatnih elemenata na njoj. Zgradu je naručila plemićka obitelj Contarini, poznata po velikom broju mletačkih duždeva koji su iz nje potekli. Gradnja je trajala desetak godina, a projektirali su je Giovanni i Bartolomeo Bon, koji su ime stekli radom na brojnim slavnim venecijanskim građevinama, prije svega Duždevoj palači. Stil gradnje je venecijanska gotika, koja je zapravo mješavina gotike, bizantske umjetnosti i maorskog utjecaja iz Španjolske. Palača je sagrađena oko malog unutarnjeg dvorišta, kao i mnoge druge u Veneciji. Ako se odlučite da je posjetite, možete uživati u djelima slavnih talijanskih umjetnika ili autora iz flamanske škole, a kolekcija obuhvaća i razne skulpture te keramičke predmete.


Odmah uz raskošnu baziliku sv. Marka, smjestio se povijesni centar političke moći u Veneciji te jedan od najprepoznatljivijih motiva La Serenissime - Duždeva palača (Palazzo Ducale). Duždeva palača imala je kroz hiostoriju nekoliko funkcija. Prije svega, bila je sjedište mletačke vlasti - mjesto zasjedanja Vlade (razna vijeća), te rezidencija izabranog vladara, dužda. Također, ondje su bili smješteni i sudovi te zatvor, koji je kasnije premješten na drugu stranu Mosta uzdaha. To je građevina koja na najbolji način predstavlja stil venecijanske gotike, koji je zapravo mješavina gotike, bizantske umjetnosti i maorskog utjecaja iz Španjolske. Primjetan je i utjecaj renesanse, no zanimljivo je da je gotika tada u Veneciji još uvijek dominantan stil, iako se renesansa brzo širila apeninskim poluotokom. Unutrašnjost je također prekrasna, a svoja djela ondje su ostavili i neki od velikih umjetnika poput Tiziana ili Tintoretta.


La Serenissima je danas u stalnom strahu od porasta nivoa vode. Naime, već od 1501. godine postojao je savjet koji se bavio problematikom vodostaja u venecijanskoj laguni. Međutim, dok znanstvenici mudruju, Venecijanci su pomalo preumorni da slušaju priče o gumenim fleksibilnim membranama, hard topovima, koji će ih, navodno, u nekoj bliskoj ili dalekoj budućnosti odbraniti od vode. Pa tako ovaj jedinstveni grad propada sve više svakoga dana, te se čini kao da nas podsjeća na relativnost našeg trajanja u vremenu...


Nemoguće je navesti baš sve što vrijedi pogledati u Veneciji, jer ovom članku ne bi bilo kraja. Mnogi kažu da ćete Veneciju najbolje upoznati ako se sami upustite u lutanje lavirintom uličica... Venecijanski kanali kao da vode u neku nestvarnu i tajnovitu prošlost koja tako snažno privlači ljude iz čitavog svijeta u grad zaustavljen u vremenu.


(Izvori: putovanja.krstarica; putovanja.aladin.info; putovnica.net; putusrist.com)
Neira Delić


 
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